Half Man Half Noodle Wears Tailor Made Clothes and Partakes in Motorbike Madness While Singing Catchy Asian Pop and Sleeping on Bus Floor Aisles

Although I didn't know it at the time, our crazy bus ride from the Lao border was a good indication of the ride that Vietnam had us in for. Hanoi, the capital city of Vietnam, was our first stop and considering it is a big city I was surprised at how much I liked it. The streets are quite the show as there are hardly any cars - 95% of the traffic is comprised of motorbikes which not only weave in and out of each other with incredible ease, but carry ridiculous loads that you cannot help but wonder how they don't just tip over (some of the more interesting ones that we have seen - a tall wooden post strapped onto the back with branches off of it from which dangled plastic bags full of water and live goldfish, a motorbike with a stack of 8 full size bicycles on it, another with 3 full grown dead pigs strapped on the front, back and middle, and any number of passengers from 2 to 8. It is really quite amazing.) There is actually a book called "Bikes of Burden" which is a compilation of pictures of the exceedingly ridiculous loads - definitely worth a flip through if you can get your hands on it! A lot of the buildings in the Old Quarter look they could be of elegant colonial style, yet they are so randomly placed and surrounded by tangled power lines that the potential for elegance is somehow lost. However where elegance may be lost, intrigue is definitely gained! Our first night in Hanoi was Shaina's birthday and we happened upon a gem - a hole in the wall bar called Half Man Half Noodle (how could we not go into a bar by this name?!). By the end of our time in Vietnam we have spent 4 of our 4 nights in Hanoi at this bar. The staff know us and our drink preferences, and we all got free t-shirts - I never would have guessed we could become locals at a bar during our travels!

Next stop - Sapa, which is in NW Vietnam. At this point we had said goodbye to Stina and Roger, the fantastic Swedish couple we had been with since our border extravaganza in Laos, but were still travelling with Idan and Uri, the hilarious Israelis. Sapa is in the hills and the surrounding area is full of many of the minority tribal groups in Vietnam. Shaina and I got our fill of hiking in and set off on a "self-guided" tour of the area (much more to our liking than the many planned typical group "hikes" offered). This resulted in us hiking through lush green forest alongside a crystal clear emerald green river, through a valley full of rice fields following a small path that wound it's way beside thatched houses busy with squaking chickens and grunting pigs, and bushwacking (or "rice-paddy hacking", if you will) through disgruntled water buffalo, ignorant cows and territorial dogs, making our way from smaller dirt path to even smaller dirt path and eventually finding our way back to Sapa. A perfect Shaina-and-Jenn-need-a-hiking-adventure-day. Before we left Sapa we said a sad goodbye to Idan and Uri - it had been a fantastic 8 days of travelling with them, however we were all still on the move, but in this time in different directions. We then spent one night in Bac Ha, another northern town who only sees tourists for their Sunday market (so of course we went during the week), and did some more hiking, which rewarded us with fantastic views of the incredible undulating and artistic lines of the rice fields.

Next stop - Ninh Binh. This was the start of our motorbike madness (actually the moto-taxi ride we took the day before through the streets of Hanoi, passing every car, bus and motorbike in sight and weaving back and forth in and out of everything, and racing off the traffic lights, not unlike the start of a Formula Car race, and leaving me wavering back and forth between feelings of death and exhilaration was likely the start of it, however....) We rented motorbikes for two days in a row and had the time of our lives. It didn't matter that some of the sights we visited were less than inspiring, the freedom of being on the bike made it all worth it! My first 20 minutes EVER of driving a bike involved Shaina on the back and the two of us together navigating ourselves through "Highway 1" - the main road through town. I quickly learned that as long as you hug the right side of the road, yield to all things bigger than you, and honk at everything you pass, it is a breeze .....

Continuing south, we stopped for a one day tour of the Demilitarized Zone - the area separating North Vietnam from South Vietnam during the war. Our guide worked during the war as a liason between the Americans and the Southern Vietnamese - he was a huge source of knowledge and provided us with the insight that we had been looking for. Once again, we headed off on motorbikes (although this time with drivers) and explored some of the reminders of the war, many of which were off the main roads, off of a small path off of a dirt road - impossible to have found on our own. Among them we saw Charlie 1, a bunker still standing, a huge cemetary containing the graves of fallen soldiers , and the Vinh Moc tunnels. These are similar to the famous Cu Chi tunnels near Ho Chi Minh City, in that they were used to shelter people and move supplies, however, unlike Cu Chi the area is not nearly as popular with tourists, so they have been completely unaltered from their original form. I was walking hunched over the entire time, with the walls crowding in on either side of me, and found it so hard to comprehend that people actually lived in these tunnels, and 17 babies were even born in them. The determination and perseverance of these people is truly incredible.

It was a good thing that we had not planned to spend too much time on the beach, as we were in for a spell of rainy, dreary weather - a result of Typhoon Durian that hit the southern coast. After only spending two nights and one rainy day in Hue we continued on to Hoi An - the custom-made clothing capital of Vietnam where we were instantly immersed in the culture of couture. Although Shaina and I had both previously decided that we would not get anything made, within a few minutes of arriving we had already succumbed to the great tailors and ridiculously cheap clothing, which they spin off in only a few hours using any design you can dream up or find in a magazine. We both went a little crazy - good thing the duffle bag business is also booming in Hoi An, as we definitley needed one by the time we were done with the tailor shops! I am not really sure when the next time will be that I can say "I would like that suit", look through rolls of fabric, "In that color with that liner", be measured to a T, "to fit me just like this" - I must admit I felt a bit like a celebrity! The other highlight of our time here was a completely unexpected reunion with Stina, Roger, and Idan - it was so great to see their familiar faces again!!!

With our duffle bag packed to the max, we boarded a 18 hour bus ride bound for Hanoi. This time I followed the lead of the locals and bought a woven mat, spread it out in the aisle of the bus and proceeded to sleep on the bus floor. I have to say it was really not that bad....beats folding up into a pretzl and trying to sleep on the seat!

Our final stop in Vietnam was Halong Bay. I will not go into the details of the scams that surround this popular tourist stop, however in order to avoid it we decided to go on our own, instead of joining one of the numerous tour groups that leave from Hanoi. Needless to say this decision gave us a ride in itself, however turned out to be the right one as it seemed that every person we met was not satisfied with their tour for one reason or the other. We took a boat tour of the bay which is simply stunning. The gray misty skies cast a very surreal effect on the peculiar limestone rock formations which rise randomly out of the water. I felt like I was in a black and white film, as the rocks were in various shades of gray, yielding the appearance of large vertical shadows rising from the water. We spent one night on Cat Ba Island, and although the weather was not quite beach-worthy, we still had some fun splashing around in the water and on the sand (despite the fact we were wearing fleece jackets and pants!!).

At this point we had sadly reached the last night of our trip together. We spent it in Hanoi, at none other than Half Man Half Noodle, reminiscing about the countless hilarious times, adventures, and memories. The next day we took a flight together to Bangkok, where we said a tearful goodbye as Shaina headed south to Phuket and I continued on for my treacherous journey home - 5 flights in 5 days. It has been a fantastic 3 months and I could not have asked for a better travel buddy. Thanks Shaina!

I am now in Delhi in the middle of my Long Way Home (6 flights in 5 days), and will post some more pics and some final thoughts when I (finally!) get home .... after overdosing on airplane food, memorizing the airplane safety demonstrations and becoming a complete zombie from lack of sleep and recycled stale air, I will be back in cowtown on Dec.17!!

Food for thought - an exerpt from a book by the Dalai Lama that I thought was just so fitting given the time we spent at the Demilitarized Zone, and Vietnam's history of war:

"We see murder as dreadful, but there is no association of war with criminality. On the contrary, it is seen as an opportunity for people to prove their competence and courage. We speak of the heros it produces, almost as if the greater the number killed, the more heroic the individual. And we talk about this or that weapon as a marvelous piece of technology, forgetting that when used it will actually maim and murder living people. Your friend, my friend, our mothers, our fathers, our sisters and brothers, you and me."

Vividly Vietnam

Ahoy from Hoi An, Vietnam! I am not really feeling the writing vibe right now so instead: some random pictures from our time in Vietnam thus far. When I can find a computer that a) Has a CD drive and b) Has a CD drive that actually works, I will post some pics from Laos. Details on the events behind these pictures to come, and then it will all make more sense....... for now, sit back, relax and enjoy.
Ciao!



Two crazy Canadians, a fantastic Swedish couple and two hilarious Israelis - who could ask for a better combination??!!


Maturity beyond her years .... a young girl in Sapa, Vietnam


Incredibly artistic undulating curves of the rice fields in Sapa, Vietnam


Our new favorite animal - the incredibly docile, gentle and kind-eyed water buffalo


Two women from the Black H'mong tribe in Sapa in their incredibly colorful hand-embroidered clothing


Motorbike madness in Ninh Binh, Vietnam


Apparently rowing a boat in Vietnam is absolutely nothing like rowing a boat in Canada.......

Livin' it up in Laos

Howdy ya'll! It has been awhile since I have put anything up here, so I figured I might as well get to it. Right now I am sitting in an internet cafe in Ninh Binh, Vietnam wearing every article of warm clothing I have, and I am still chilly. I have had a lot of "firsts" on this trip, and I just might be in for one more - my first typhoon! Apparently a hurricane is bound for the coast, and is causing this cold, dreary weather. It is supposed to hit tomorrow, so hopefully it passes by quickly and is not too serious! (Not to worry, we are inland right now so should not be affected). However, more on Vietnam later as first it is back to the 10 days we spent in Laos.....

Our entry into the country was less than spectacular, as it involved a 14 hour bus ride from Bangkok to Vientiane, the capital of Laos. However, when we finally arrived we were greeted by a city with wide roads void of much traffic, an eclectic asthetic of buildings with traditional wood structures to dreary concrete to French-influenced elegance, and a variety of restaurants offering every type of food one could want, from Mexican to Indian to French cuisine and Scandinavian Baked goods. I would quickly realize that this was but one of many indicators of the large and influential expat population in the city. We spent our time here seeing some of the pagodas and temples, eating some delicious interactive Laos meals (meaning you get a pot of boiling broth over red-hot coals, along with fresh veggies, meat and fish that you cook it yourself at the table) on the banks of the Mekong river, and a 50km bike ride dodging the crazy traffic to "Buddha Park", a green shady park right on the banks of the river that was full of bizarre, yet compelling, concrete sculptures of Buddha, Hindu deities and others that were odd combinations of people, poses, and animals - slightly weird yet interesting.

Continuing north, Vang Vieng was our next stop. If I had wanted to take a break from Lao culture, food, and people this would have been the place to do it. However, as I wasn't quite in the mood for a main street with every restaurant serving the EXACT same menu (I think they were literally photocopies of each other) consisting of hamburgers, pizza and french fries and playing "Friends" re-runs at high volume and an environment reminiscent of what I would imagine Spring Break Cancun to be, it was less than inspiring. However, the dramatic scenery made up for the excessiveness of all things Western and lack of anything Lao. The town is surrounded by very distinct and abstract limestone "peaks" that look like massive boulders, and sprout randomly out of the lush green hills. I have never seen anything quite like this and it made the vista look so odd and interesting - an all-you-can-eat chocolate buffet for my eyes. The area is surrounded by caves, which we spent some time hiking to, tubing through (involving pulling yourself through the cave on a rope, while sitting in an innertube) and kayaking around. These were really neat, full of stalacites and stalagmites and sparkling colored ridges of minerals (which my first year engineering geology course failed me in being able to identify). Easily the most ridiculous time in Vang Vieng was the day we spent kayaking down the river. The kayaking itself was less than challenging as the river slowly meandered its way, with no regard for those seeking some white water. However, the unexpected and many "bamboo bars" set up on the side of the river more than made up for this lack of action. The one we stopped at had a HUGE rope swing built out over the river on a bamboo platform, which was easily 25m above the water. You stand on the platform with your knees shaking at how high it is, grab on to a bar and hold on for your life, jump off and swing wildly out over the river, making sure to let go at the highest point so as to have the longest fall into the water - just brilliant!

Following this slightly ridiculous interlude, we continued northbound to Luang Prabang, a UNESCO World Heritage sight. It is quite a pretty city, full of quaint side streets lined with houses of all shapes, sizes and materials, many with flowers or greenery out front. It is right on the banks of the Mekong and surrounded by mountains - beautiful! We took a short boat ride up the river, slowly puttering along passing people watering their small green market garden plots with metal watering cans balanced on a bamboo stick across their shoulders, and the sun slowly casting an orange hue on the water. We also succumbed to a small taste of luxury and had Lao massages (how can you resist when it is only $3 USD for one hour?!). Apparently after only the second massage of my life, I am getting picky as it was not quite as heavenly as the Thai massage, however I cannot complain!

Luang Prabang marked the beginning of our Vietnam Border Crossing Bonanza. Being the stubborn and "off-the-beaten" track seeking travellers we are, we were determined to cross the border overland, although we lacked any concrete information as to whether the border was open, legal for foreigners, or completely closed altogether. However, the mix of information we had received included more positive responses than negative, so we decided it was a go. We were lucky to meet up with a Swedish couple and two Israeli guys who were also attempting the same path, so we all rented a minivan with a driver and off we went. On the way we spent one night in a small town with two guesthouses and three restaurants, all serving the same staple of noodle soup (which we ate for lunch, dinner and breakfast). This ended up being the authentic Laos experience that we had been looking for, as we had a chance to talk to some of the locals, do some hiking in the surrounding area which was full of spectacular green hills and peaks with randomly placed limestone rocks and enjoy the market being the only 4 foreigners in the town. Actually, the market is worth mentioning as we had our first introduction to Laos market meats, which looked more like roadkill to me than something I would want to bring home to cook! (One particularly scrumptious item resembled more of a housecat than dinner.....)

Our quest to the border continued, with the last stop being Vieng Xai where we spent one day exploring a few of the 102 caves in the surrounding area which were used to shelter government officials during the Indochina war. Many of them were complete with rooms for weapon and artillery storage, meeting rooms, bedrooms, and even living and dining rooms. Laos is the most heavily bombed nation, on a per capita basis, in the history of warfare and by the end of the war approximately 1.9 million metric tonnes of ordnance - over half a tonne for every man, woman and child living in Laos - had been let loose on the country. Shocking is a severe understatement. Despite this tragic past, the people of Laos were just stunning. With an always cheerful "sabaidee" (hello in Lao) and friendly smile, they were so kind and welcoming. Children, shop vendors, women, men, monks - everyone would greet us with "sabaidee" whether we were just passing by or stopping in. Such a simple act, yet it made for such a welcoming atmosphere. Laos really was a pleasant surprise and an unexpected gem.

Our travel luck continued as we met up with 4 other travelers seeking to cross the border, so the 10 of us rented a minivan and amazingly enough made it to the border, through the Laos customs, and past the Vietnam officials (involving shuffling us back and forth between a small network of bamboo huts) and into Vietnam!!!!! However, the adventure was not quite over, as we still had to find a means to make it out of the random border town and to Hanoi, the capital city. The Birthday balloons that I had tied to Shaina's backpack (yes, Shaina had the pleasure of spending her 23rd birthday not only away from home on a prolonged day of bus rides and chaos, but in TWO different countries - Laos and Vietnam) must have been exceedingly lucky, as we managed to arrive at the border on one of only three days per week that a bus goes to Hanoi. So, we bordered the bus and the madness ensued as we were crammed into a sticky bus full of people, baskets of food, full rice sacks (which people were sleeping, standing on and leaning on), remnants of chewed-upon sugar cane all over the floor, a duck hanging in a cage from the ceiling of the bus, and chickens riding on the roof. We were bound for Hanoi and I really don't think it gets more authentic than this.

I am now in the last 2 weeks of my trip and am in disbelief at how fast time has flown! It is time to hop onto an overnight bus headed for Dong Ha .... so, until next time.....

p.s. If anyone wants to update me on the ludicrous motion of Stephen Harper supporting Quebec separating, that I have been hearing rumours over here about, I would love to hear it.